
For
me there is an ancient mystical air around the coffees of
Yemen and for
the first time we are seeing some truly fantastic and original quality.
Firstly…fresh
crop Yemeni coffees! Almost unheard of ? If you take note of the green scoop
sample it looks like a nightmare. The colours and screen sizes are all consistently
inconsistent. Wild, natural coffees are often roller-coaster coffees, as they
are going to be predictably, unpredictable. This is part of the magic. By
buying a “lot”, we are secure in the knowledge that the coffee is going to be
of “a premium quality” and our job is to monitor the coffee during its life, to ensure it is doing just what we want it to.
Opening the grain-pro sack hits you like warm, sweet dough
proving, with notes of dried fruit, it reminds me of standing on Ronny’s patio
at Triangulo (in Guatemala) and just the brown fruit of the naturals is strange
but invigorating.
We
have saved the Matari for you as it is the clear winner in the cupping bowl.
The liquor is lighter than the Sanani, with earthy notes at first, developing
into a rosy, floral and rummy cup. The refinement has hints of Biloya special
natural (still a huge personal favourite).
Is it too early to drink this? I think now it’s good
and I’ll continue to taste it with intrigue as we travel through the crop.

Why
so expensive? We have paid a price approaching international internet auction
lot status for this coffee, but it is striking and will divide the coffee
crowd, as such a great and different experience.
Going
back to the scoop, this is possibly some coffee produced as it was many
hundreds of years ago and is amongst the founding reasons we keep on drinking
coffee today.
The
story and the sheer adventure of amazing flavour. I am also REALLY happy to pay
a premium for the coffees of
Yemen,
as a coffee economy in modern times shouldn’t hurt them too much.
